portrait photos by ben
way back in the fall of 2009 i took a teaching job in kuwait. at that point i was newly graduated from COLUMBIA UNIVERSITY and armed with an education masters degree and a few recommendations from BROOKLYN TECH. unfortunately there was a hiring freeze due to the recession which meant finding work was next to impossible. so i looked abroad and ended up teaching at my former high school.
i lasted all but three months. it was my worst job to date. but i will save that story for another time. two months into my stay the emir at the time decided with virtually no notice that the whole country was getting an extended weekend off, so i found myself with something like a 6 day window to do something. i ended up quickly getting tickets to JORDAN.
my neighbor and fellow teaching peer came with me which was a good thing, as he was wayyyyy into JESUS. normally that would be a disaster, but given all the old testament stuff that happened in JORDAN regarding MOSES, KING HEROD, SALOME, JOHN THE BAPTIST, etc. it was nice to have someone versed on the subject. lord knows i wasnt since i never paid attention in catholic school.
video by nacrowe
when we got there we ended up taking an illegal taxi around the country, which in retrospect was beyond stupid. but it worked. going to the DEAD SEA, PETRA and AQABA, we went through numerous military checkpoints and told the officers that the driver was our cousin. i still do not know how i wasn't arrested.
im glad i took the trip because years later i went to ISRAEL and basically saw the other major biblical sights on the other side of the DEAD SEA. my interest as an english teacher at the time was just to experience the history of it all. experiencing the narrative by visiting places like MACHAERUS (historical site of the beheading of JOHN THE BAPTIST and SALOME's dance of the seven veils ) and MOUNT NEBO (where MOSES completed his prophecy of seeing ISRAEL and then dying on the spot). whether or not i believe any of it (i don't) is beside the point. irregardless of the religious significance, i was always attentive and interested on a narrative level. trips like these i regularly used as fodder for my classroom when applicable.
BEDOUIN photo by nacrowe
my favorite memory of this trip was when we randomly met up with two married couples (one AMERICAN, the other CANADIAN) from our school in PETRA and followed them to AQABA in the south by ISRAEL, EGYPT and SAUDI ARABIA. i still have a scar on my hand from bumping into fire coral while snorkeling down there. on the way back to AMMAN (the capitol) the AMERICAN husband was speeding and making everyone carsick, namely the CANADIAN wife. at one point he didn't see a speed bump and everyone in the back of the van shot up in the air. unfortunately for her, the CANADIAN wife hit her head. at that point the CANADIAN couple were politely asking the AMERICAN husband driving to stop so she could vomit. he wouldn't listen and kept speeding because, well, i still have no idea. it was all ego basically.
PETRA photos by nacrowe
after watching the CANADIAN couple futilely ask repeatedly i yelled out "HEY FUCKO, PULL OVER!" which he did immediately. the CANADIANS were impressed. after she threw up outside and came back on board i tried to explain to them that AMERICANS are not much for subtlety, we are a boorish people that need to be hit over the head with the obvious.
when i quit my job a month later this couple gave me a CANADIAN flag to put on my backpack in transit so that people wouldnt think i was AMERICAN in the airports. easily one of the nicest compliments i've ever been given overseas.